Land of Fire and Ice
March 2017
Finding Elves, Volcanoes, and the Aurora
11 Highlights of Southwestern Iceland
- The Aurora (Northern Lights)
- Geothermal Pool (Blue Lagoon, Laugarvatn Fontana, or Secret Lagoon)
- Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon & Diamond Beach
- Skaftafellsjökull Glacier
- Þingvellir National Park
- Eyjafjallajökull Valley & Seljavallalaug Pool
- Hallgrimskirkja
- Skógafoss Falls
- Hofskirkja (Turf Church)
- Reynisfjara Beach
- Strokkur Geysir
Recommended 7 Day Itinerary
Day 1 – Reykjavik – sleep in Reykjavik
While Iceland has been inhabited since around 800 AD, the city of Reykjavik is younger than Boston, New York, and Philadelphia, founded in 1786. The city is modern, colorful, and safe. 1 day is probably enough time for a traveler. The city is unique, but the marvels of the countryside are a bigger draw. You will definitely need a car to visit the rest of the country, so it is generally easier to rent the car when you fly into the airport and find parking in Reykjavik the first day.
Morning
Head out for a stroll stopping for breakfast (or brunch if you are still getting over jet lag) with waffles and coffee at Mokka Kaffi. Enjoy the vibe and photographs hanging on the walls while people watching. Once you’ve had your fill walk the 4 blocks to the Lutheran Stone Church of ***Hallgrimskirkja***. The icon of Reykjavik, this church is beautiful and uniquely Icelandic. Wander back to Laugavegur street, the main shopping district, enjoying the street art and low-key atmosphere. Duck into one of the local bookstores on your stroll. Bookstores are used as meeting places, coffee shops, places to get warm, and general hangouts. 1 in 10 Icelanders publishes a novel, thriller and crime are favored genres. But if you’re in the mood for epic, try Halldor Laxness’ Independent People. Laxness is the only Nobel prize winner from Iceland. Both Eymundsson bookstore and Mal og Menning are excellent places to stop. Additionally, if you want to see paper, stop by a nearby bank and exchange some dollars for Icelandic Krona. Iceland is almost completely cashless.
Afternoon
Grab lunch at Reykjavik Fish, fresh and reasonably priced, or buy food from a local grocery store and picnic in the park nearby. Wander over to Hólavallagarður*, named one of Europe’s most beautiful cemeteries. Continue through neighboring Hljómskálagarður, a popular park, worth a picnic or nice walk. Next visit Sólfarið*, the Sun Voyager Statue looking out over the harbor. If the weather is bad or you would rather spend time indoors, the National Museum of Iceland, Reykjavik Art Museum Hafnarhus, or Whales of Iceland (more for youngfolk) are all nearby.
Evening
After the sun sets, step into the Harpa Concert Hall (or check the event calendar). At night the windows, lined with lights, glow and change color, mimicking and indoor aurora. For an inexpensive yet cultural dinner, stop at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur** Hot Dogs, open ’til 2 AM. Many a famous tourist, including Bill Clinton, has eaten here.
Quick Tip: Eating out in Iceland is really expensive and in general not particularly unique or tasty. Stop by a grocery store, such as Bonus, to stock up on food. Buy fresh yogurt, bread, meat, spicy mustard, and of course, salted licorice (you either love it or hate it)
Alternatives: On the weekends the Kolaportið Flea Market is a great place to mingle with locals. To see artwork from some of Iceland’s greats you can visit he Kjarvalsstaðir, focusing on the artwork of Jóhannes Kjarval, or the Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum exhibiting the sculptures Sigurjón Ólafsson. Other places that you can’t enter but may be worth walking around for their historical significance are: Laugardalsholl Sport Center (which does have a public pool if you want to mingle) where Bobby Fischer beat Boris Spassky in the 1972 World Chess Championship to become the first (and still only) American World Chess Champion, or Höfði House where Reagan and Gorbachev met in October of 1986 for the Reykjavik Summit. An especially eclectic spot is the Lágafellskirkja, where at night neon lights shine on the gravestones and crosses. Of particular interest is Jón Páll, one of the first strong men of Iceland, who is buried here. During the day the top of Lágafellsklif provides an excellent view over the surrounding area. In good weather it is possible to view the city, Mt. Esja, and Snæfellsjökull glacier.
Day 2 – Golden Circle – sleep in Selfoss, Fludir, Eyrarbakki
Morning
On your way out of the city you can stop at Halldor Laxness’ House, the Gljúfrasteinn Museum. If you like literature, he is Iceland’s only Nobel Laureate, writing Independent People, Under the Glacier, and Paradise Reclaimed, and a national hero. Þingvellir National Park*** – Tectonic separation of North American and European plates Flosagjá fissure /Þingvallakirkja** – Both in Þingvellir National Park, a short walk from the tectonic separation is a fissure (also showing tectonic plates) and a cool church. Silfra Fissure – If you are willing to pay the money you can go snorkeling in between the tectonic rift. I know people who did it and really enjoyed it but it is expensive. https://www.dive.is/diving-snorkeling-tours/diving-day-tours/silfra-diving-day-tour/ Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal pools**, sauna, and lake – if you choose this one (as an alternative you could do Laugarvatn or Secret Lagoon on Day 6, the return since you’ll have more time – I’d recommend this) Friðheimar – Greenhouse & Food Skálholt Cathedral* Secret Lagoon – if you choose this one Strokkur Geysir* – A geysir that erupts every 5-8 minutes, very regularly, not as high as old faithful but more frequent Gullfoss Falls** – Huge waterfall, really pretty but can’t get very close to it Faxi Falls* – Smaller waterfall but you can walk all around it, and no tourists Kerið Crater Lake** – A volcanic crater, we ran out of time and missed it Laugardælir Church Cemetery** – Burial place of Bobby Fischer, no tourists visit but really cool !!! Note: Selfoss is the last place where you will find a major grocery store
Day 3 – Southwest Iceland – sleep in Vik
Eyjafjallajökull Volcano – stop at on the roadside to see (Eyjafjallajökull Erupts is a museum probably not worth going in but has a parking lot to stop) Seljavallalaug Pool* – A swimming pool that uses thermal springs to keep warm (not hot). About a 30 minute hike through a glacial valley below the volcano Seljalandsfoss Falls*** – can walk underneath the waterfall (bring waterproof jacket) Skógafoss Falls*** – Large waterfall that you can walk under and near the top of, almost always has a rainbow Skógar Museum? – We didn’t go here but may be interesting if you like museums. It is a collection of traditional Icelandice household items https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abT3MRsk7sQ Sólheimajökull Glacier** – Easy glacier to hike to (~20 minutes) and easy to walk on part of the glacier (can also take a tour) Dyrhólaey Arch* – A cool arch in the ocean you can look out over Reynisfjara beach*** – Black sand beach with unique basalt columns Vik – There are a couple restaurants here. We ate at the gas station. Vik church** – Nice church perched on a hill in the town !!! Note: Vik is a good place to get gas, the last major stop for a while
Day 4 – Southeast Iceland – sleep in Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Eldhraun Lava Field – Drive through fascinating landscape, can stop and get pictures Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon** – Off the main road but can descend 100 m and hike in the canyon (we didn’t have time) Kirkjugólf (The Church Floor) – Quick stop to see this basalt rock formation Foss á Síðu? (2nd tier waterfall) – (we didn’t have time), can see from Dverghamrar Dverghamrar basalt columns*** – Really interesting basalt rock formation that you can climb on and around. Worth the stop, and not as many tourists Núpsstaður Turf Church – One of 6 remaining turf churches, along with a turf church farm. Is on private property so sometimes unaccesible. Can be seen from the road. -if this doesn’t take long enough can continue with day 5 as needed
Day 5 – Southeast Iceland II – sleep in Kirkjubæjarklaustur again
Skeiðará Bridge Monument – When a volcano erupted decades ago, the ice created a flood that washed out the road. Really short stop also good view of the glaciers. Skaftafellsjökull Glacier*** – 2.2 miles total, cooler glacier than Sólheimajökull Glacier (both cool), this one more difficult to get on without a tour (can take a tour) Svartifoss Waterfall Hike** – 1ish mile hike (from a nearby parking lot as Skaftafellsjökull). Looks really cool, we ran out of time. Hofskirkja (Turf Church)*** – Really really cool turf church in the town of Hof, with interesting cemetery. We couldn’t get in but still worth stop, no tourists, in a cool little town Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon*** – Amazing lagoon with icebergs formed from calving of the glacier. In summer you can ride on pontoons to get up close to the glacier, need to book in advance http://icelagoon.is/booking/ Diamond Beach*** – Next to the Glacier Lagoon is a beach where ice that doesn’t make it to see gets caught. Cara’s favorite part of our trip. Can keep driving to Hofn, a slightly larger town for food, but not too much beyond Hofn Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon – On way back can stop at this lagoon, not as famous as Jökulsárlón, but off the road enough that it may have fewer tourists
Day 6 – Return to Reykjavik – sleep in Reykjavik
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 3 hour drive – Do anything you missed or saw on side of the road (as an alternative you could do Laugarvatn or Secret Lagoon on Day 6, the return since you’ll have more time to relax and enjoy – I’d recommend this) 2.5 hours in you will reach Hveragerdi (which you didn’t drive past before because of Golden Circle) Reykjadalur Hot Springs/Hike – This is the hot springs where people just sit in the river. Even if you don’t do the hot springs it is a great hike through a river valley (~45 minutes one way) Hveragerdi – Known as the hot springs capital of the world, Reykjadalur is part of the Hveragerdi region.
Day 7 – Reykjavik
Relax in Reykjavik, do things you missed in Reykjavik Blue Lagoon?? Flight out